A TECHNIQUE DRIVEN Blog dedicated to mastery of surface design techniques. First we dye, overdye, paint, stitch, resist, tie, fold, silk screen, stamp, thermofax, batik, bejewel, stretch, shrink, sprinkle, Smooch, fuse, slice, dice, AND then we set it on fire using a variety of heat tools.
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Stay tuned for details about the two give-aways, one for Rebekah's new book and a second give-away of a piece of unique fabric designed by Rebekah herself!
Sunday, April 22, 2012
Will get rid of the gelatine and wait for my gelli plate to arrive ;-).
Did you see this blogpost, many more possibilities with the gelliplate/gelatin:
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
After reading Karen´s blogpost, and her search for marbling effects, I got permission from one of my best dye-friends Marrie-Jette (who is always playing with dye and fabric and gets the most beautifull results) to share her tutorial on dyeing ´soapflowers´ here:
First of all, you need to make handmade olive soapsolution. Take a piece of olive soap, grate 20 grams from it, put it in a bucket and pour 1 liter of very hot water over it. Leave it overnight, with occasionally stirring.Then mix 100 ml. of this soapsolution with 2 grams procion powder dye and you have your thickened paint ready!
Put a piece of dry fabric on a large piece of plastic and put a scope of the handmade olivesoapsolution on top of it, spread it out. The cloth should be wet by the added soap.
Now take your dye-soap in an tipped bottle, and draw on the fabric. Use a stick to get the marble-effect and add extra soappaint when you feel like it:
When you´re happy with the results, sprinkle the soda-ash on top of your fabric (ofcourse you can add it to the soappaint as well, but then it can only be used for another 4 hours).
Leave it for a couple of hours, the paint will spread, so keep it horizontal!
The next day you can rinse the fabric in order to remove all the soap.
Isn´t that gorgeous? Marrie-jette also tried to use liquid detergent, but it is too thin to her opinion to work well.
Look how she created a nice dress with these flowers:
Thanks Marrie-jette for sharing your wonderful experiment with us!!
Monday, April 16, 2012
Sunday, April 15, 2012
For these prints I worked from light to dark and used Orange Rust, Fuchsia, and Navy Blue dyes. To create designs, I used template plastic cut into squares and rectangles and some fancy "yarn." I will happily show you the best of these prints.
1. First I tried rolling the dye onto the gelatin plate but it was too thin of a layer to print well. After that we used a credit card to spread the dye. The "best" thickness took some experimentation.
2. Beth and I had different thicknesses of dye paste. We found the thicker dye paste gave us better results.
3. The size of the bubble patch is important. Our gelatin plate had two huge sections of bubbles. Therefore, all of our prints have areas that are really heavy with dye. (see above) If I were to make another gelatin plate, I would separate the bubbles into smaller groupings.
4. If you are careful about laying down the fabric, you can get shadows of the bubble blobs in the different colors used on the plate. I kinda like the look. Here is a close-up. Notice the orange and fuchsia shadows of the navy.
5. The thickness of the dye over the bubble section is really critical. Those bubbles can hold tons of dye and can saturate the fabric with dye leaving great blobs. However if the bubbles are carefully scrapped leaving less dye, you can get great patterns. Here are the good, bad, and ugly pictures of bubbles.
Saturday, April 14, 2012
So I didn't scratch my brand-new piece of plastic, I got the plastic combs from my marbling supplies for combing through the dyes.
But as soon as I laid the fabric down, the intricate fine lines were smashed and lost. So I found that if I laid down a layer of plain thickener and then dropped on the thickened dyes and combed through, there was more of that lovely patterning.
Monday, April 9, 2012
Well there is a gelliplate on its way to me but I didn´t want to wait. So an old sachet gelatine powder with a pint of water will do for now, I made a bowl full of it, small but fine for a first try.
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
She lives in the Netherlands and is a successful business woman in addition to being an art quilter extraordinaire. Her blog, Verfvirus, which translated means Paint virus or Dye virus can be easily translated with her "Translate" gadget although she usually has a synopsis of her posts in impeccable English.. She certainly has caught the virus and is always involved in some new permutation of fiber art experimentation. She will be joining us in the fall as the artist of the month but will start right in working along with our other resident artists and blogging.
Welcome to "And then we set it on fire", Nienke.
Sunday, April 1, 2012
First, I needed a gelatin surface. I rejected pie plates as too small and the sheet pan I wanted to buy from my local restaurant supply as too large (with the early spring, my "drive-in cooler" is way too warm to chill the gelatin) and settled on an old glass 8.5" by 13" dish. This dish can no longer be used for brownies now that it has found its way into the dye studio, but I really don't need those calories (and in a pinch, I can always purchase ready-made brownies).
I poured the gelatin into the glass dish, covered it with plastic wrap and let it refrigerate overnight. I didn't try to skim the bubbles or anything because I planned to use the other side for my prints.
The next morning it was set and and I inverted the dish on top of the plastic wrap so I could use the wrap to put it back into the dish when I was finished for the day. I did find that sometimes I had to help it out of the dish with a plastic fork, but generally it popped out easily -- especially after it had been used once or twice. When it started coming out of the dish in pieces, I just pushed them together and used it anyway, but replaced it soon after that.
|Blobby dyes -- ok, but not what I was after|
The measurements that I used were as follows: for one quart water, two teaspoons of thickener. Then add to that mixture one tablespoon dye powder for each cup of thickener.
I don't have a blender that I can donate to my studio right now (it's still needed for those pestos and certain summer drinks) so I found that if I sprinkle the thickener powder into the water while whisking, I can get a mostly lump-free liquid. Let it hang out in the fridge over night and it's perfect. Just stir it up before measuring it out for the dye.
After it's been used a bit, the gelatin takes on some nice color, but if it's wiped off, the color doesn't seem to transfer to subsequent prints.
After peeling the print off, I removed the resist "stuff," put down another piece of fabric and got some lovely negative prints. I laid the prints in a single layer on thin plastic garbage bags that I had cut open; then I folded them up and let them batch overnight.
Some of the negative prints were less interesting and I put them on a pile to "overprint" later. Below are more "finished" prints.
I plan to do more with this -- I'd like to experiment with warm colors. Also, I want to play around with acrylic paints and inks. But I'm really liking it so far...