From Flower Photo to Fabric Collage

 

During my many years as an avid gardener, I took loads of photos of my flowers. When I started doing fabric collage, it was logical to find ways to transform my photos into works on fabric that could stand alone or could be stitched together in a variety of ways. There are lots of ways to go about this process; this is one I developed myself, for better or worse.

The Photographs

I began with the photographs. (You’ll see later on that one photo that was transformed into a collage was not even a good one, but it did provide enough information.) I cropped the images until I had just one flower. Then I used my image editing software to turn it into a black and white image, with strong contrast that made the shapes more conspicuous. (I have used the free software Paint.net for years, acquired when Photoshop cost a few hundred bucks and there weren’t many other options that were user-friendly. Not as powerful as Photoshop, but I don’t need endless tools. I love Paint.net, so I send a few dollars every couple of years to keep it going.)

Next, I sized the image with the software to what worked for my piece and printed a few copies on plain paper. I spent some time simplifying the shapes and then made my outlines bold with a marker. Each piece was then numbered on one copy I used for reference. I needed a couple of my copies to include all the overlapping pieces. Then I duplicated the shapes on tracing paper (adding the numbers) and cut them out. I stored them in a labeled envelope.

The Fabric

By using some beautiful batiked cottons, I was able to use the patterns already on the fabric to get loads of texture and detail, as well as variations in tone. I added some heat fusible adhesive to the wrong side of the fabric and then carefully laid out my tracing paper patterns on the front, pinned them, and cut them out. I then ironed some of the cut fabric pieces onto the black background fabric – just the ones that would be stitched first so I could overlap the ones that needed to be on the top layer later.

For this project, I made a sandwich of the black fabric with the flower pieces, thin cotton batting, a layer of stabilizer, and a lightweight cotton backing. I did my stitching through all these layers. The back side is almost as lovely as the front. Do be careful to plan your stitching on the flower pieces so your overlapping pieces go on in the right order!

 

Finishing

I added some free motion stitching details on each piece. I made three of these collages and I plan to add fabric borders so I can stretch them on canvases and display them as a set, but these are lots of ways to finish them.

 

 Here is another of my collages, this one made in the same way but from a rather poor photograph.  I especially like the fabric in this one. The patterns in the batik add a lot to the piece.

Let me know what you would do with the finished collages.

Eco Printing Basics

Peony Leaf Hanging with Black Thread Embellishment

In the past months, I have been crazy about Eco Printing, otherwise know as "botanical contact printing." There is a lot happening in this broad and lively field of work on fabric and paper, and I have so much to learn. But it wasn't hard to figure out why it appealed to me so much.
1. I love plants! They are the primary component of this process.
2. I love experimenting! Experimentation is key to getting a handle on what works.
3. I love presents! Every time I open a newly processed packet, it feels like it's my birthday!

Fabric & plant bundles ready for processing

Fabric & plants wrapped on tin cans after processing

In general, Eco Printing is a process of laying plant material on fabric or paper ( a.k.a substrates) - frequently between 2 layers of the substrate, wrapping the materials together for maximum contact between the plants and the substrates, and then processing with heat (either with steam or by immersion), sometimes using a mordant to encourage the bonding of the plant pigments to the substrate. Loads of variety with all parts of this.

Dried oak leaves on linen, ready for wrapping

Oak leaves and linen securely wrapped with twine around a birch stick, with ferrous sulfate mordant ready to add to simmering water bath.

Bundles simmering

Saucepan containing some hot water, used to submerge the floating bundles

So, what about mordants? In my brief experience with mordants, it seems to be one of more interesting and variable of the elements in the eco printing process. My first batch of printing came out beautifully, with clear black outlines and whole leaf prints.

Oak leaf prints, embellished with gold thread

In looking back at my notes (which I try to record after every printing session), I see that I soaked the cotton and linen fabrics for this batch in a solution of 3 liters water, 1 teaspoon soda ash, and 1 teaspoon alum for about 12 hours. Then I squeezed out excess solution and soaked the fabrics in 3 liters water with 1 teaspoon ferrous sulfate for a couple of days. There were 3 mordants used here: soda ash, alum, and ferrous sulfate (the last responsible for the dark prints). Also note that I used October oak leaves that were completely dead and dry, and they gave beautiful results. I have also had good results with just alum on both fabric and paper and with seawater on a series with mangrove leaves and seaweed right off the Gulf of Mexico shoreline.

About the processing with heat: I have successfully processed both fabric and paper bundles in simmering water and above it with steam, usually for 2 or 3 hours. Sometimes I break up the required time, such as when I need to run an errand and don't want to leave the stove on. The break doesn't seem to matter. I am fortunate to have a vented fan that takes the moisture out of the house. REALLY helpful! I generally leave the bundles to cool overnight or for a few hours. After unwrapping the materials, I try to avoid rinsing the fabrics for at least a few days to allow for the continued bonding of the plant pigments to the fabric.

Is heat necessary? My understanding is that printing can take place at room temperature but that it requires longer periods of time. In her bible (or book, for some) Eco Colour: Botanical Dyes for Beautiful Textiles, India Flint has information on cold processing. I highly recommend her book, although I wouldn't call it the best resource for rank beginners. There are loads of books, blogs, websites, and workshops. I explore endlessly! You should too.

Here is a short list of plants that have worked very well for me:

• oaks (all species that I tried)
• peony leaves
• onion and shallot skins (I collect them in a plastic bag as I cook and store in the freezer)
• eucalyptus (moderately successful - from florist shops)
• fruit tree leaves (cherry, pear, some unknown species)
• mangrove leaves
• fresh seaweed (Sargassum sp.)
• sweet gum leaves (Liquidambar styraciflua)
• sassafras leaves (Sassafras albidum)

In most cases, I have used both fresh and frozen materials with equally good results.

BOTANICAL NOTE: Don't be afraid of using Latin names! It's the most reliable way to know exactly which plant you have or want to find. Above, I used the Genus and the species names of sweet gum = Liquidambar styraciflua. When using the names, the protocol calls for either 1) italicizing both words or 2) underlining each word separately: Liquidambar styraciflua. Here's the thing: each species can have many common names but it has only ONE scientific name. The wonderful print below was made using a Florida garden plant that my friend called "Lipstick Plant" (because of the red flowers at the tips of the stems). But when I looked up the plant online, I found a completely different plant called "Lipstick Plant." Not what I was looking for!

"False" Lipstick Plant on paper

For now, here are a few images of finished works made with my fabric and paper eco prints, and I am working on more ways to use up those piles I am accumulating!

Purse made with Peony print on cotton

Cherry leaves processed between tin, in red cabbage bath

Silk scarf processed on tin can with onion skin and tropical leaves

Oak leaf table runner on linen

I expect I'll hear from many of you with more information. I'll attempt to organize any comments into a post later in the month, so send it on. Thanks!